AS Boiler- Pressure/Thermo.Rad.TrapTesting

15:05 ______________________________________________________________________ American Standard Boiler (G-606, Series 2B-J3) Pressure Control and Thermostatic Radiator Trap Testing How do I determine what the pressure cut-in and cut-out’s are for this boiler? How are the settings changed? The outside of the boiler has an Internal Syphon Compound gauge manufactured by Marsh Instrument Co. The gauge ranges from 30 vac to 30 press. It is wired to a small American Standard box (pressuretrol, I think) inside the outer jacket of the boiler. It is summer now in Pittsburgh, so the boiler has not fired recently. The gauge now reads 8.5 on the vacuum side. Also, the boiler has a slow leak, which leaves a puddle. It is possibly near where the wet return enters the boiler. I would like to test the Dunham Thermostatic Radiator Traps because there is occasional water hammer (banging) in places when the boiler runs. I want to use a Tempilstik to test each trap. How high should I set the thermostat to test? The temperature generally reaches the mid 80’s around this time of year. What temperature of Tempilstik should I use? The only temperature ratings I can get without special ordering are 200F and 225F. Here is some background information about the heating system: The house is approximately 75 year old house with the following American Standard Gas Boiler (Series 2B-J3; Boiler G-606), installed in 1967. The house has a two pipe steam heating system. It has three types of radiators: plain pattern cast iron (U.S. Radiator Corp.), concealed radiators (McQuay Radiator Corp. probably), and two Base Ray’s. Each radiator has a Thermostatic Radiator Trap (C.A Dunham Co. No. 1A) and a Dunham Packless Radiator Valve. The house also has two steam mains with a Dunham 1E trap installed near the end of each main. The dry returns connect the wet return through an Air Eliminator (Dunham Type No. 220). I assume it is a vapor system, since there is no vacuum pump apparent, and a gravity system, because condensate doesn’t appear to return by any mechanical means. Replies: Freon “Re(1):AS Boiler- Pressure/Thermo.Rad.TrapTest” , posted Sat 23 Jul 16:28 ______________________________________________________________________ My first recommendation is let sleeping dogs lay. I too have an old steam heating system and once the piping system has “cured” it’s almost impossible to work on. For a little ‘hammering’, I don’t think you want to go near any traps. Wait for a serious issue before ever venturing into that piping system. As for the pressure control, there should be a simple one wired in series with all the other safety systems. Maybe they never had one since many residential boilers don’t have the BTUs to really generate excessive pressures or they used a simple pressure relief valve like those found on hot water heaters. As for the leak, there you can do something. First look in the fire box and see if there’s any visibly leaking water. I don’t know the boiler’s construction but most are sections joined together by two push-nipples at the botton and one big push-nipple at the top. I suspect a bottom push-nipple but if you see water dripping in the firebox, then it could be one pinhole in one of the sections. Assuming no water in the firebox area, remove the jacket and begin your search. If you do find a leak between sections, you can try a stop-leak product or split the section and replace the push-nipple. But be sure you can get the exact push-nipple for that loveable (but old) boiler before doing anything! I have done a successful push-nipple replacement (much to the total dismay of my plumber who wouldn’t touch it) and it’s very tedious and has a low probability of success (according to my plumber). At the age of your boiler, you may want to consider a replacement depending on your findings. jjjj “American Standard G-606 Boiler Leak” , posted Wed 10 Aug 14:17 ______________________________________________________________________ I still haven’t determined the exact source of the boiler leak. It looks like I would have to remove the low water cutoff tapping in front of the boiler, and a BASO gas control. I can’t remove the back cover because the wet return pipe and wall are in the way. I have a source for replacement sections and push nipples for the American Standard G-606 boiler. This boiler has an AFUE of 80. I’m inclined to keep it, since it really is well built compared to the newer ones, and the near boiler piping could remain unchanged. The mains are insulated with asbestos, as are the wet returns, and some other piping. I am calculating the total load in square feet of Equivalent Direct Radiation for the house to try to determine if the boiler is really oversized. I will post questions about radiator ratings in another post.