Should I purchase new system?

______________________________________________________________________ We have a brick home with approximately 3600 square feet built in 1960. The house has many windows, including 4 10 foot sliding glass doors. All the windows in the house are single pane with an aluminum frame. We Continue reading

Snapping aircleaner

______________________________________________________________________ I have a honeywell electronic aircleaner attached to my furnace. It continually “snaps” when the furnace is running. The cells are clean and there are no broken wires on them. Can anyone tell me why it does this. Thanks Continue reading

Good system? Decent price?

______________________________________________________________________ Bryant 310AAV048100 80% AFUE gas furnace Bryant CE3AXA042?00 3 1/2 evap coil w/txv Bryant 650ANX042000 13 SEER 3 1/2 ton heat pump w/hard start kit Thermidistat control $6,300 Location Memphis, TN Replies: tnguy “another question..” , posted Tue 15 Continue reading

Aprilaire 700 problems

______________________________________________________________________ New unit installed Tuesday.There is still no sign of it working.When you turn the knob to test,the green light flashes and you can hear the soleniod energize.This means it’s working according to Aprilaire tech. It is getting water supply Continue reading

Sizing A/C unit

______________________________________________________________________ I am currently getting estimate on replacing my Furnace and A/C. My current A/C is a 3.5 ton (with 4 ton coil), it is about 18 years old and had a really hard time keeping the insdie temp at Continue reading

Fan on…no heat or AC Armstrong Ultra SX-80

06:14 ______________________________________________________________________ Fan and vent fan run constantly, will only turn off when power is turned off to unit. New filter. Checked thermostat (Hunter digital)…it is switching correctly. 24V good from transformer to control board. I am not getting 24V Continue reading

On/off valve knob broken on Honeywell vr8440p

13:15 ______________________________________________________________________ I have a Heil NDGE105NF01 furnace with a Honeywell gas valve model# vr8440p. The plastic knob on the Honeywell gas valve has broken and now I am unable to keep the gas valve open because it will not Continue reading

ventor motor contiuous running

______________________________________________________________________ the ventor motor is contiuously running the led light is on steady which the maual said is a (recycle) that the gas valve and control should be checked for proper operation??? what is the proper operation , the manual Continue reading

“Trane or Carrier” , posted Mon 21 Nov 17:34 ______________________________________________________________________ My question is: What makes a unit more efficient..the tonage or the seer? I have the option of purchasing either an electric: 5-ton Carrier, 13 seer with variable speed for $5,936.36 (performance series) or a 4-ton Trane XR14, 14 seer without variable speed for $6,562.31. My home in southern mississippi (Kat area) is approximately 2100 sq. ft. I do hope to add an additional 400 sq. ft. at a later date. At present I have a Lennox electric heat pump and air exchanger 3-4 ton. (The compressor died and both units were installed in 1989). ( I can purchase a Carrier 4-ton, 13 seer with variable speed for approximately $1,000 less than the Trane 4-ton, 14 seer) Replies: amatchin “Re(1):Trane or Carrier..Update” , posted Sat 3 Dec 12:09 ______________________________________________________________________ Thank you all for your input, it has been very informative. Since posting I have had new developments. My old unit is a Lennox 3.5 ton. The ductwork is considered to be sufficient for my requirements. Todate I have had (5) Techs check my home and recommend a.. 4-ton unit… Each one recommends a different Brand Product. Trane XR14-14seer,(the tech has it in stock), Trane XB13-14seer(the tech for this unit said the XR14 would not be available in this area until mid 2006, also I was trying to finance through Home Depot with this supplier. Unfortunately the price through Home Depot is $1,000.00 plus-more, no savings here.), Airquest 10/12seer (the exact same as a Carrier without the brand name. (Never could get the Carrier company to come out or keep their appointments),American Standard 3.5ton-13seer and a Xenon,(a York Brand, just become available in this area.). Even though they all carry different brands they do not provide any quotes for other units for comparison. Right now I am leaning toward the Trane XR14 or the Xenon 14seer. The Xenon has been mentioned somewhere in the forums as a quality system (don’t remember where). Can any of you provide some input on the far it sounds like the better unit. Many Thanks for you help. amatchin “Re(2):Trane or Carrier..Update..Need Help” , posted Thu 29 Dec 00:31 ______________________________________________________________________ Hi again….I decided to go with the Xenon(A) 4ton 14 seer. It was rated as one of the most efficient systems in 2005 by The American Council for an Energy-Efficient Economy ( (The system is being installed in the attic)I also decided to replace my existing ductwork (30 years old)with the new flexible ducting. My problem now seems to be….. the contractor is using a lot of Fiberglass Plenum material for the main trunk line instead of using the flexible material we discussed. The trunk line starts out at 24×24 and gradually decreases to 2″thick x12″ then decreases further. Also there is a turn backward to pickup the back ducts which is 2″x12″..all fiberglass Plenum material. Then they will duct the flexible pipe off to the ceiling duct opening. I thought air flow was important (the larger duct the better) in efficiency. By reducing the size down to 2″thick seems to me to actually decrease the air flow down to almost nothing. Also, all that fiberglass on the inside of the ductwork (not covered with anything, but compressed) would appear to be a health hazard. With the air flowing through the fiberglass plenum ducts wouldn’t it be sending fiberglass out of the ceiling ducts?, Especially as it ages. Also it seems that it would collect a lot of dust that may get past the filter and spew that into the air. I wanted to replace the existing ductwork to eliminate the dust and dirt that has collected over 30 years. (I will be setting up a yearly maintenance with this company to make sure it is always in top condition.) This is not at all what we had discussed when the work was quoted and the decision made to go ahead with the job. I had assumed that when I ask for flexible ducting all the existing ductwork in the attic would be the flexible ducting. Did I assume too much?? Is it common to replace the main trunk line with fiberglass plenum material??? (25-30′) Please answer asap…they are returning tomarrow to finish the job….I am not a happy camper. Your opinions and advise are very important to me. Thank you. mastertech “Re(2):Trane or Carrier..Update” , posted Sat 3 Dec 16:57 ______________________________________________________________________ Trane and American Std are the same units Just different tags. So price and workmanship will be the desiding factors. So hope that helps LOL. mastertech “Re(1):Trane or Carrier” , posted Mon 21 Nov 23:36 ______________________________________________________________________ Think u can do better on price than what that Trane dealer offered. A 5 ton will consume more power and be less effecient, but if its to small it may never satitisfy. If u had a 4 ton before and it worked fine it may not cool if u add 400sqft(about a ton). But in the south where it would be humid, variable speed is a must. Heat pump normally cost less than a $1000 more and u could save that much in 2-3 years if u use it 4 months a year over straight electric heater. Should be able to get a Trane XLi19 heat pump for around $8000-$9000. That way u wont have to worry about to much unit while u wait to build the extra room. Been selling them XLi19’s like hot cakes since the cost of power went up LOL. fitter597 “Re(1):Trane or Carrier” , posted Mon 21 Nov 18:42 ______________________________________________________________________ The SEER rating makes it more EFF. the tonage is the amount of cooling your getting, if you oversize you will not pull humidity out of the home properly, if you undersize you will not cool the house down properly, rule of thumb is 600 square ft. per ton of cooling for a residential home, not including closets, hall ways, basements, they should not be included in the sizing of A/C for your home, only actual room sizes. “We Do It Right The First Time” acefurnacefixer “Re(2):Trane or Carrier” , posted Fri 25 Nov 19:40 ______________________________________________________________________ fitter said “not including closets, hall ways, basements, they should not be included in the sizing of A/C for your home, only actual room sizes.” So if your hallways, closets and basement add up to lets say 1400 square feet, you wouldent include that space in your load calculation? What company do you work for? I want to be sure I dont call them out if this is a common practice for them. Here in Ohio we take the total house into concideration when sizeing a system, including hallways basements and closets……..we are a small company we only have 15,000 customers, but they are all very Happy ones. Yes! I CAN fix that! Tom R “Re(2):Trane or Carrier” , posted Mon 21 Nov 22:31: ______________________________________________________________________ Rule of thumb is not a good method for sizing. For example, some of the guys in my area use the same rule of thumb and we are in cleveland OH. I’m sure it is much more humid and you have a lot more hot days then we do here. The proper way to size the equipment is to do a load calculation. Secondly, when you do a load calculation you include the entire house. Amatchin, are you replacing a heat pump? If so, the unit should be sized for your cooling load. Tom [this message was edited by Tom R on Mon 21 Nov 22:34] Fitter597 “Re(3):Trane or Carrier” , posted Mon 21 Nov 23:28: ______________________________________________________________________ you’re right about the the actual load, but the rule of thumb is just for the home owner to educate himself a little about sizing of a system so that some fast talking salesman doesn’t take them for a ride, I see it all day long. And amatchin when you do have a actual load done let me know how close it was to 600 square foot per ton. 2nd thing if you include below grade unfinished basements, and closets and hallways when you do consider a/c sizing thats new to me, Can’t remember the last time i seen a hallway or a closet with a supply it them…unless your building a house for Donald Trumph with a closet so big you could park a few cars in? If you did include the whole house there would be no reason to do a room calulation for cooling load, measure the outside of the house and there you go? “We Do It Right The First Time” [this message was edited by Fitter597 on Mon 21 Nov 23:32] Tom R “Re(4):Trane or Carrier” , posted Tue 22 Nov 09:08 ______________________________________________________________________ There are too many variables to go by rule of thumb. Let me first ask you, have you ever done a real manual J load calculation without short cuts? From your last response it does not seem like you have. Manual J takes in many variables that can affect the heating and cooling loads. The variables are, All outside walls whether or not they are above ground or below, any floor that is not above a conditioned space including the basement, ceiling area, type of window and window area, insulation through out the house, amount of people living in the home (each person = 400btu), and heating and cooling hours of the area. The load calculations I have done in the past have figured out to be between 1,100sqft to 800sqft per ton in my area. Tom fitter597 “Re(5):Trane or Carrier” , posted Tue 22 Nov 21:07 ______________________________________________________________________ Tom , this guy isn’t building a house? he is replacing an existing system, you have no idea what the duct system is, if it is sized right, if it is installed right, and after walking thru the home you still won’t know, the ducts will be covered with drywall, paneling, in walls and chase’s etc. you have no idea what the windows are insulated at, and if there working and haven’t lost there gas betwwen the pains, what kind of insulation is in the walls, and if it was installed properly with a vapor barrier that works, and the crew that installed it wasn’t drunk and in a hurry to get to the bar that friday, how could you go by those factors when they are most likely impossible to determine? I have used many different types of load calulation programs from many different associations and there all different in some ways, Rses has one, ashrae has one, the UA has one, what makes you think yours is better? If sizing A/c was such a science like you make it out to be, wouldn’t they sell it by 1/16th of a ton instead of half ton sizes? And if this manual J program includes below grade basements and closets and hallways for COOLING, I would like to meet the brain surgen that wrote it. Maybe i’m wrong but what is the purpose of COOLING those area’s? Honestly when was the last time you seen a supply register in a standard closet or hallway? And without a register why would you factor it? Hallways may have a return but almost never a supply. And if you could cool a 1100 to 1200 square foot house with 1 ton of cooling when it’s 105 outside in the shade and your customer likes to have a setpoint of 71, your next trick should be walking on water. Unless the house was in Alaska. The bottom line is just because you believe that your manual J is the best way to size mechanical systems, WHICH IT COULD VERY WELL BE IF IT WAS NEW CONTRUCTION, doesn’t mean that what other people use to size is wrong. If me and you walked into the same house to quote air conditioning, you could go thru your Manual J and i could look around and talk to the customer and when all is said and done if we weren’t at the same size condensers and maybe mine was 1/2 ton bigger because i went with a rule of thumb, do you think it would be an injustice to the home owner, the whole extra 6000 btu’s that i’m sure would come in handy the first time he had a 4th of july party, or any family gathering or the first summer when it’s 98 degree’s for 3 weeks straight and his a/c cycles off and the guy next door’s unit won’t. “We Do It Right The First Time” Tom R “Re(6):Trane or Carrier” , posted Tue 22 Nov 23:28 ______________________________________________________________________ You really should not be giving advice on this issue. From your statements you do not know what you are talking about. I am a licensed contractor. The manual J is the standard that all are suppose to go by. If you have a load calc program that comes up with different numbers then the manual J, then its wrong. Knowing how to do a manual j load calc is part of getting a HVAC license. As far as putting registers in closest, I never said that. I said the whole house is to be considered for the calculation. The air in a closet as well as a hallway all need to be heated and cooled through the HVAC system. The biggest problem I find these days, are systems that are oversized. The way I size and exsisting house is get all the information I can from the home owner about the home, such as insulation and such. I then measure, all outside walls including the basement, floor area, ceiling area, and window area. I also meaure the main supply and return duct. I then do my load calc and add 10% for any bad info from the home owner. After I get the size of the equipment, I determine if the duct is adequate size. Most of the time the duct will work. If the duct will not, I tell the home owner what needs to be done to fix the problem. If the customer is not will to fix the problem I do not do the job. I do not want a home owner not being happy with the system when it is finished or the headaches of call backs. Tom Fitter597 “Re(7):Trane or Carrier” , posted Wed 23 Nov 02:32 ______________________________________________________________________ Tom seeing that your a “licensed contractor In cleveland OH.” And you must “Know how to do a manual j load calc as part of getting a HVAC license.” And you say that “The manual J is the standard that all are suppose to go by. If you have a load calc program that comes up with different numbers then the manual J, then its wrong.” do us all a favor and call these’s companies and tell them to stop what there doing becuase there programs aren’t the same as the one you have been brain washed in, an for that , they are wrong. 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