craked condensation pan

______________________________________________________________________ Recently I noticed water leaking into my ceiling. Upon inspection I found that the pan under my A type coils had cracked, and water was just running down into a large emergency pan under the furnace, but some has in turn leaked into the ceiling. I have a 2 and 1/2 ton Bryant A/c – furnace about 18 yrs old. The pan under the coils is plastic, and cracked where the condensation line attaches to the pan. It also cracked on the other end of the same side. Not sure why it cracked. I puttied it up for a quick fix, but the A/C man says I should replace the A -type coils at the same time I replace the pan. Cost is estimated at $700 for that job. The coils are aluminum and do not seem corroded or dirty. Ques. Is replaceing preferred as opposed to just replacing the pan. The pan is very snug in there, and it looks like a labor intensive job to get in there and replace the pan or the coils. What should a good estimate for both replacements be, and what should I expect to pay to just replace the plastic pan. Kthanks for your help. Mike Too hot in Atlanta Replies: hvacwannabe “Re(1):craked condensation pan” , posted Mon 2 Aug 15:27 ______________________________________________________________________ There is probably no way to replace the plastic pan without pulling the evaporator out of the air handler box. I would think that it would still be cheaper to replace the pan than replace the evaporator. $700 to replace the evaporator is not a bad price though. All but approximately $250 is labor. mike4314 “Re(2):craked condensation pan” , posted Mon 2 Aug 16:03 ______________________________________________________________________ Thank you for the reply. Any idea on what the expected cost should be to just replace the pan. Unit is is a good location with plenty of room to wk. Also, why would a plastic pan crack like that. Im sure it hasn’t been touched by anyone since it was installed. Mike Too hot in Atlanta hvacwannabe “Re(3):craked condensation pan” , posted Mon 2 Aug 16:26 ______________________________________________________________________ I don’t do it for a living like some here but I would guess at $300- You have to remember that your heat flows over the plastic in the winter and then the cool air and condensation in the summer. Many years of heat and cold would cause it to crack eventually. mike4314 “Re(4):craked condensation pan” , posted Mon 2 Aug 17:47 ______________________________________________________________________ Thank you for your help. $300 is a lot better than $700. I already paid an A/c guy 65 to come out +65 for an hour to look at the pressure in my outside unit and ck out the inside attic unit to find the cracked pan + 7lbs of refrigerent at $22/lb ($284, plus he came out to day to find the leak in the system for out basement unit (another $65.), for a total of $349, and nothing was fixed yet by him. Well one lives and learns, at least I now know where all the problems are in both the upstairs and downstairs units. I think I need to get into a new business . . By the way, know someone good in Atlanta to install the outside condensor and compressor unit. Too hot in Atlanta beginner “Re(5):craked condensation pan” , posted Mon 2 Aug 20:27 ______________________________________________________________________ If the tech found the leak, he or she should had fixed it. Adding refrigerant is not fixing the leaking problem. Sooner or later you will need to add refrigerant to the system again. Hal_C “Re(6):craked condensation pan” , posted Mon 2 Aug 23:24 ______________________________________________________________________ One thing you need to do his call them back and demand some money back. That unit only holds about 4 lbs of freon max.If he put 7 lbs in there your going to have some major problems soon. It should have the full charge amount on the plate with the model# on the outside of the unit. If your line set is over 25 ft it may take a couple of more OZs to correct the charge. He out and out robbed you on that deal. You should also request that they send someone out that knows what they are doing because that guy is ripping you off. Better yet after they refund your money call a more reliable quality dealer. Sorry for the rant but I hate it when when I see dealers like that taking advantage of customers. Tell him you can prove that unit does’nt hold 7 lbs of freon. Let me know the mod# and I,ll see if I can get you a copy of the product data on that unit. mike4314 “Bad outside unit – potential fraud on repairs” , posted Fri 6 Aug 20:34 ______________________________________________________________________ WEll, I went out and looked at the outside unit. It says Bryant on the outside, and when I looked closer at the plate with all the info it listed the following relevant info. BDP Co., a Division of Carrier Model 565BJ030 Product 685BJX030000AAA Seriel No. 3085A1058 Factory Charge 4lbs 8oz Pressure High Side 300 Low side 150 RLA 16.2 LRA 90 You were right regarding the lbs. I am definitely going to call Monday. I assume they shouldn’t put in more Freon than the original factory. Correct? Paid 22.50 per pound – so I got screwed to the tune of about $60.00 on that. Is there any crap they can tell me as to why they might have put in 7 lbs. It all leaked out anyway. On the wk order he appeared to write “Charged unit 78/225. Cannot guarantee Freon charge.” Also on the line item he wrote 7lbs R22 @22.5 =$157.50 I am chapped about this whole thing. Our total bill was $297.50 because he also charged a $70.00 diagnostic fee (but didn’t attempt to find the leak)+ 1hr labor @ $65.00. He did go into the attice and looked at the cracked evaporator pan in the attic. You have already been a great help and sorce of info. What would you recommend about replacing the condensor and coils. The unit is about 18 yes old, and there is a leak in the condensor coil. I am wondering about just replacing he coils or(don’t know how much that would cost) or replacing the entire outside unit. This guy quoted $1375 installed, no additional costs, freon and everything. Im not going to use them however. Also Im sure that price is probably for a SEER 10, nothing higher. WEll thanks for your help. Any info or advice you can give will be appreciated. Too hot in Atlanta Xenos Webmaster “Re(1):Bad outside unit – potential fraud on r” , posted Fri 6 Aug 20:44 ______________________________________________________________________ If the distance from the furnace to the out door unit it greater than 25 feet, more refrigerant would be required ( small amount) as the factory charge is only good to 25. As far as the replacement, if it’s an 1985 model as it may appear to be, a new unit is not out of the question. Xenos. The best way to escape a problem is to solve it. mike4314 “Re(2):Bad outside unit – potential fraud on r” , posted Sat 7 Aug 20:42 ______________________________________________________________________ Thank you. The distance from the outside condensor unit to the furnace and blower is about 30 feet, so I guess a littel more than the 4lbs 8oz was needed. But Im not sure 7 lbs was right. Question. Do the technicians insert the freon, then check the pressure until they get a reading of 120 or whatever the correct reading should be on their guages. In other words do they just keep adding freon until then get a proper reading on the guage they use to test the freon pressure level? Sorry, I don’t mean to go on and on, but his has been a real learning experience for me. Thanks Mike Too hot in Atlanta Xenos Webmaster “Re(2):Bad outside unit – potential fraud on r” , posted Fri 6 Aug 20:46: ______________________________________________________________________ OOPS sorry HAL. Good call BTW on the 4lbs. Xenos. The best way to escape a problem is to solve it. [this message was edited by Xenos on Fri 6 Aug 20:48]

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